Kefalogourna Waterfalls, Thassos: Are They Worth Visiting in Summer?

Before our trip to Thassos, we’d both read about Kefalogourna Waterfalls.

We’d also read the same warning more than once: in summer, when Greece is hot and dry, the waterfalls can be much less impressive.

So we crossed them off the list.

There were beaches to see. Moussaka to eat. We moved on.

Then, while we were already on Thassos, my friend was scrolling through Instagram and found a post from the waterfalls from the day before.

There was water.

Quite a lot of it, actually.

“Look at this.”

And just like that, Kefalogourna was back on the list.

If you’re planning your own trip to the island, you can also read our honest guide to a week on Thassos, including where we stayed, our favourite beaches, Giola, Panagia, Aliki and Marble Beach.

A change of plans

The next morning, instead of heading straight to the beach, we drove towards the waterfalls.

It was August and hot — properly Greek-summer hot, around 30°C during our stay — so we packed our swimsuits, water shoes and towels.

Not because we were planning to swim in a waterfall.

Obviously.

We were going to the beach afterwards.

This distinction became irrelevant fairly quickly.

We parked near Theologos and walked towards the waterfalls. Getting there was fairly straightforward.

And then we saw them.

Wow.

I love waterfalls, so perhaps I’m not the most neutral judge here, but this was much better than I’d expected.

After everything we’d read before the trip, I’d been prepared for a pretty little trickle of water over some rocks.

This was not that.

About that cold water…

There weren’t many people actually getting into the water.

We soon understood why.

It was cold.

Really cold.

We looked at the water.

We looked at each other.

And apparently decided that summer was as good a time as any for a little cold-water swimming.

Out came the swimsuits.

On went the water shoes.

And in we went.

It was freezing.

It was brilliant.

And we can now officially say that we swam at Kefalogourna Waterfalls in Thassos.

Was it necessary?

No.

Would we do it again?

Probably.

There’s more than one level

The waterfalls aren’t just one pool that you walk up to, photograph and leave.

There are different levels to explore. We swam at the lower one. Higher up, the water was shallower, and at the top we could see the little stream feeding the waterfalls.

That was probably what I liked most about the place.

You can wander around, climb a little, sit on the rocks and keep discovering another view.

We ended up staying for around two hours.

Two grown women climbing over rocks, playing in freezing water and attempting to take photographs that we hoped would look considerably more elegant than the process of taking them.

A perfectly sensible way to spend a morning.

One thing I would definitely bring

Shoes with good grip.

This is the practical bit I wouldn’t ignore.

There is some climbing involved and you’ll need to walk over rocks in places. Some surfaces can be slippery, so this isn’t somewhere I’d choose smooth-soled sandals just because they look good with a summer dress.

We had water shoes with us, which were useful for getting into the water, but for moving around the rocks I’d prioritise secure footwear with decent grip.

You don’t need to turn up equipped for an expedition.

But your shoes should understand that they’re going to a waterfall.

The best part on a hot August day

What surprised me wasn’t only the waterfalls themselves.

It was the change in the air.

We’d arrived from a hot August day on Thassos, and around the water everything suddenly felt fresher.

Still warm.

Still Greece.

But cooler and wonderfully refreshing.

After days of beaches, sunshine and Greek summer heat, spending a couple of hours around cold running water felt ridiculously good.

And then, of course, we went to the beach.

We had standards to maintain.

Are Kefalogourna Waterfalls worth visiting in summer?

For us, absolutely.

We almost skipped them because of what we’d read before the trip. If my friend hadn’t found that recent Instagram post, we probably would have.

And that would have been a shame.

The amount of water will obviously depend on conditions, so I wouldn’t assume that what we saw in August will look exactly the same every summer. If you’re visiting during the dry season, checking recent photos or posts before you go is a very good idea.

That’s exactly what changed our plans.

But if there’s water flowing and you’re already exploring Thassos, I’d make time for Kefalogourna.

Bring good shoes.

Bring a swimsuit.

Even if you’re absolutely certain you’re not going swimming.

We were too.

And if Kefalogourna leaves you wanting another Thassos adventure, there was also the day we decided to drive to Mount Ipsarion by Jeep.

We had a paper map.

We had two GPS devices.

We still managed to get lost.

Quite impressively, actually.

→ Read: Driving to Mount Ipsarion by Jeep: Two GPS Devices, One Map and No Idea Where We Were
[INTERNAL LINK – IPSARION ARTICLE]